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Guides

Guides to India's hill towns

Thoughtful local notes for slow weekends, good meals, and knowing what is actually worth leaving the house for.

Tandem paragliders under an orange-and-blue sky on landing site at Bir
First-timer's guide

How to reach Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Getting to Bir is straightforward. Knowing where to get off is the part that trips people up — "Bir Road" is a highway junction, not the town, and the place you actually want is Chaugan.

Dharamshala's buildings and stadium spread across the hillside with the Dhauladhar range rising behind
First-timer's guide

How to reach Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh

Dharamshala is the transport hub of the Dhauladhar corridor — the closest town to Kangra Airport and where the long-distance buses terminate. Here is every way in, and which one is worth your money.

McLeodganj's main market square
First-timer's guide

How to reach McLeodganj, Himachal Pradesh

McLeodganj sits 6 km above Dharamshala on the Dhauladhar slope. Almost every route in passes through Dharamshala first — except the overnight buses from Delhi, which come all the way up.

Aerial view of a cloud-ladden Dharamkot village
First-timer's guide

How to reach Dharamkot, Himachal Pradesh

There is no direct way to Dharamkot. You get to McLeodganj first, then cover the last 2 km on foot or by taxi — and the road gives out before the village does.